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Abstract

#Corset Training RSS Corset Training

* About Me
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Corset Pattern Making - New Patterns Coming Soon! Get One Free!!

* At December 12, 2011
* By Kirsty
* In Corset Training, How To Make a Corset
* 0

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I've been tweaking this new pattern for a few weeks but I think it's
finally finished! Looking forward to making it up and seeing how pretty
it looks! Its a corset training underbust with low rise top and over
the hips tummy control. I'm creating a range of patterns starting with
this one that I plan to make printable on a home printer so you can
print out as many times as you like and not have to fiddle about with
resizing from a book.

corset training pattern

corset training pattern

The plan is to scale it to the regular dress sizes like a normal
dressmakers clothing pattern then give instructions on how to select
the closest size for you or your models figure and alter it to fit
perfectly. To celebrate I will be drawing up a printable version of my
corset belt pattern to give away completely free!

If you'd like to join the launch party and get your hands on this super
little pattern completely free along with other goodies, fill out the
form below so I know where to send it!

Free Corset Pattern

Join the `Launch Party' for the new corset pattern range and get a free
pattern this Friday!

Email Address * ____________________

Name * ____________________

Age * ____________________

Country *
[.........................]

Your Sewing Preferences (tick all that apply)

* [_] I want to make corsets
* [_] I want to make bra's & undies
* [_] I want to make all types of clothes
* [_] I love sewing anything

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Seam Allowance & Fusible Interfacing When You Make A Corset

* At November 24, 2011
* By Kirsty
* In Corset Training, How To Make a Corset
* 0

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Questions from Natasha on seam allowances & fusible interfacing;

Hi Kirsty,

I just finished watching and reading your corsetry training
videos/pdfs, and I have a few questions. I'm hoping that you can
help me out.

I'll give you a bit of info (it helps the questions make sense). I
live in Edmonton, AB, Canada, so everything that is corsetry
specific has to be ordered in. My obvious choice is Farthingales
because it's Canadian (prices and shipping make more sense), but of
course that takes time. I can sew (sort of). I haven't made anything
clothing related in many, many years, but I have quilted and
craft-sewed over the years.

Here are my questions:

- Does it make sense to add in the seam allowance when you are
drawing out your pattern? I'm afraid if I just eyeball it, I'll mess
it up. If I was to add it in, could I just enlarge the pattern to
allow for the seam allowances?

- When you iron out your seams, do they iron one way or open? I'm
used to ironing with seam allowance on both sides of the seam, but I
noticed in your video that you generally don't do that. Is there a
reason for ironing them together?

- When you use a light-weight fabric for the front, would it be ok
to iron on a fusible interfacing to it? Would that cause any issues
in the construction?

That's all that I can think of before I get started. I really
enjoyed your course, and I look forward to trying it on my own.

Thanks

Natasha

Hi Natasha,

Adding the seam allowance to the pattern is fine, I don't put it on
because everyone has slightly different preferences and people making
historic corsets that are 100% historically accurate will use the
seam allowance as bone casing so will want a larger seam allowance etc
etc. But by all means draw the pattern out then draw on the seam
allowance before cutting, I often do with my personal patterns.
Ironing seam allowances all to one side serves two purposes; firstly
because the corset is pulled tight - sometimes extremely tight! - the
panels are effectively being pulled appart and if you ironed the seam
allowances apart you could get gaping between the stitches where you
could see through to the layer below. Secondly like I said the seam
allowances used to be used as the bone casing so they would be stitched
together. As it stands we use bone casing that we place over the seam
allowance and stitch down next to the seam thus strengthening the seam
and removing the possibility for the gaping I mentioned above. The
fashion fabric layer then has its seam allowances ironed the opposite
way to the lining to even out the bulk. So if lining allowances are all
ironed toward the back the outer fabric allowances should be ironed
toward the front. The correct method is to open the seam allowance and
iron flat then close it to whichever side and iron again.

I often iron on a fusible interfacing with lighter fabrics for
strength, especially if making a plus size or corset training corset. I
make summer corsets and less heavy duty ones without the interfacing
and both come out just fine but I imagine interfacing helps extend the
life of the corset. Also I'd recommend sewing a light weight corset
with ever so slightly wider seam allowances (not adding wider seam
allowances to the pattern but sewing the panels slightly smaller) as
they have a lot more give than the coutil lining and this stops
wrinkles which you sometimes get with thin fabrics. I also pull the
fabric taught against the lining when sewing the top and bottom edge,
you get a lovely wrinkle free smooth finish that way.

I hope that helps, Kirsty

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Technorati Tags: corset making, Corset Training, how to make a corset,
make a corset

How To Make A Corset Particulars

* At November 23, 2011
* By Kirsty
* In How To Make a Corset
* 0

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Some good questions on corset making from Niki

I recently bought your videos and I am wondering what sewing machine
you are using?

Also, do you have lists of supplies needed for all of the patterns you
include? Like which require a busk, which use which kinds of bones and
how many, which use strechier fabric, how much fabric is required for
each, etc?

Thank you for your time.

Niki

Hi Niki, I'm using a singer curvy but its not as good as my nans older
machine to be honest. Any decent home sewing machine would do fine.
There is a list of the best places to buy supplies in the corset making
manual ebook that came with the videos. The amount of material you need
will depend on the size you are - when you scale up the pattern and
have all your finished pieces you can lay them out and work out what
length of material you could fit them on. For an underbust or a small
overbust I can usually manage with half a meter. With a corset belt a
quarter meter is sometimes enough but its best to lay out the pieces
and work it out before buying. Don't forget to leave room for
seam allowance and don't forget to buy both outer and lining fabric. As
for stretch, always go for the less stretchy fabrics and always use
coutil or similar non-stretch fabric for lining.
All the patterns can be made with or without a busk. To make a front
closed corset (one without a busk at the front) you simply cut out the
front two panels as one - so the patterns in the book show one side of
panels that you would cut out twice, one lot for the left side one for
the right. But instead of cutting two of the front panel you cut the
front panel out `on the fold' (you fold your material in half and place
the front edge of the pattern piece on the fold line then cut out. So
when you unfold the piece of material you have just cut out it is the
shape of two of the front panels joined at the point where the busk
would have gone. Then you just completely ignore the busk step. I hope
that makes sense.

Which bones you use is completely down to preference; spiral is more
comfortable, sprung steel gives a better line and more support or a
mixture of both with the spiral at the sides for flexibility and sprung
to front and back are all options to consider, none are wrong and all
should look good and feel comfortable. For larger or `plus' sizes
choosing thicker sprung steel will give more support but it really is
down to individual preference.
Let me know if you have any other questions, Kirsty

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Technorati Tags: how to make a corset, make a corset

New Facebook Page and Groups for CorsetTraining

* At November 11, 2011
* By Kirsty
* In Corset Training, How To Make a Corset
* 0

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corset making page-

Exciting new development! I now have my very own facebook page for
Corset Making and two shiny groups for making corsets and corset
training!

But why have I got three? Well the page is to keep you all updated with
gossip and images as and when things are made, as well as give a bit
more detail on technique. And with two groups we now have somewhere to
chat and build an interactive community - if your more of a maker join
the Corset Making group and if your just interested in tight-lacing
check out the Corset Training Group. If your into both, hey, join both!
Check them out by clicking any of the images.

corset making group corset training group

So we now have our own facebook groups for both Corset Makers and
Corset Tight-Lacers!

facebook/TheCorsetMaker

CorsetMakingPage-

facebook/groups/corsetmaking/

CorsetMakingGroup-

facebook/groups/corsettraining/

CorsetTrainingGroup-

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Technorati Tags: corset making, Corset Training, how to make a corset,
tight lacing

Corset Making - Custom busk project of Matt's

* At November 10, 2011
* By Kirsty
* In Burlesque Corset, How To Make a Corset
* 0

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Matt in Australia is having a go at creating a custom clasped busk. A
very interesting project indeed:

Hi Kirsty,
Although I dont go there as often as i should, your site is growing,
but as usual, cant help add too much just yet, I will update soon!

About to start a corset, and have a question... do you know, or can
you give me a website to find out how to use the catches in pic:

clasp

I have 2 sizes of flat steel boning (13mm x 1.11mm, 15mm x 2.85mm)
about to arrive from vena cava and will drill holes for rivets in
the sprung steel boning and mount so rivets go through the boning.
The boning will be weaker where the holes are drilled.

I am not sure which size boning to try first, the thicker and wider,
or the thinner and narrower, dont know how much the bending motion
at front over time will have an affect on metal fatigue. Do you
think two strips of the 13 x 2.85 will be too stiff at front, as i
think the 13 x 1.11 better if it is strong enough. I can coat bare
metal where the holes are drilled by hand with tipping fluid, or
something like it. Unless you can offer something easier or a better
idea?

Matty

Hi Matt I've not worked with these clasps myself, where did you get
them as I'd love to have a go? I found some pictures online of them on
corsets if that helps:

corset
Your going to have to rivet them on after making the corset up, as they
need to sit on top of the fabric. So I'd suggest drilling the holes
first then making up the corset and then trying to make holes for the
rivets to go through using an awl as described in my book under
inserting the busk (where the knobs of the busk are pushed through the
fabric). That way the material won't fray.
I'd say use the widest bones you can, something in a similar thickness
to that used in a regular busk. No need to go any stronger than that.
Remember busks have their loops riveted on as well.
I hope that helps, let me know how it goes and where you got those
lovely clasps! Kirsty

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Technorati Tags: Corset Training, how to make a corset

Corset Construction Questions - How to make a corset quandaries

* At November 9, 2011
* By Kirsty
* In How To Make a Corset
* 0

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I had a plethora of very good questions from David and his wife who have
bought my course and wanted a bit more info before they took the plunge into
corset making. I thought I'd share my response for the sake of all the newbie
corset makers out there:

Hi David, I have copied and pasted your questions and answered them
individually so I don't miss anything:

You mention that the boning and lacing boning should be 1/2'' shorter
than the join length, but you don't say anything about the busk
length. Is the busk suppose to run the entire length of the front
closure or should it be 1/2'' shorter as well?

Yes it should be that little bit shorter as well, this is to allow you to sew
on the bias binding at the end without them getting in the way of the machine
needle.

You mention that sprung steel should be used for front and back and
spiral steel for the sides. Is the first bone after the busk and the
first bone after the lacing bone sprung steel as well?

Yes this is what I meant but it really is down to preference, I have made
corsets with all sprung and some with all spiral, it depends what the wearer
wants. Sprung will be stiffer and give a smoother line, spiral will give
more flexibility.

Does boning width matter? Looking online at suppliers, some sell 1/4''
boning and some sell 1/2'' boning. I assume the 1/2'' would make the
corset more rigid. Will this effect the look of the corset? What is
typical?

I use a 1/4 inch but for plus size corsets a 1/2 inch would be better as like
you said it is just a matter of rigidity, the thicker the bone the less will
bend under pressure.

Finally, coutil. We went to just about every fabric store in my town
(Denver, CO, USA) and nobody caries this material. The best fabric
store actually had somebody look up what it was to make sure. They
couldn't think of anyone who would have it other than specialty shops
(online). They were wondering if a cotton twill type fabric would also
work. We looked at quite a few twills and some stretch and some don't
depending on the quality and pattern. It also seems like the coutil is
quite expensive, and I am hesitant to purchase it online because I have
no experience with the fabric. I am somewhat nervous that the coutil
will not be a comfortable fabric against skin. Can you shed some more
light on this for me? I am using a brocade fabric for the outer layer
of the corset, if that makes a difference. The brocade doesn't seem
to stretch any, but maybe it can't stand up to the tight lacing like
the coutil can.

Coutil is specially designed for corset making and is a cotton fabric
(normally 100% but you can get polyester mixes) with a tight herringbone
weave. It can be expensive but remember you only need a 1/2 meter or yard to
make one corset, when making a short underbust I can normally get two out of
1/2 a meter. All the suppliers on the list in my book make good quality
coutil and some of them are quite cheap, so you can be sure they are fine to
purchase from. Many other fabrics are used as substitutes by amateur corset
makers or are found in historic corsets. Twill is but one. Natural fibre
content is important in any material because it allows the skin to breathe.
Historically they were made of strong linen originally but duck canvas or
drill can be used. Any strong cotton canvas that doesn't stretch when pulled
can be used. In fact anything sturdy without stretch can be used but coutil
will do the job best. Its tight weave stops stretch and its smooth cotton
surface won't irritate skin. You can use interfacing to add more strength to
an already sturdy fabric if you wish. One thing I don't recommend using is
denim as this seems stiff but will give after a few hours of wear. I always
say `if in doubt give it a good tug' and look for stiffer tighter weaves in
the cloth - herring bone is best, the smaller the better. Of course if your
not using the corset for corset training or cinching the waist in and it is
more for fashion then the strength is less important but you should still
look for a fabric with little to no stretch. If your brocade is a strong one
this will help take some of the tension, corsets have been made from strong
brocades and upholstery fabrics in the past. I have used both but always with
a layer of coutil. If your going to put all that work in I always believe its
best to not skimp on materials.

I hope that answers all your questions, I look forward to seeing your
finished corset! Kirsty

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Technorati Tags: corset making, how to make a corset, make a corset

A Question On Corset Training And Weight Loss

* At November 8, 2011
* By Kirsty
* In Corset Training, Weight Loss
* 0

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I had a question today from Angela about weight loss and corset
training that I thought would be a valuable one to share with you all:

Hi this is Angela, and I had a few questions about corset training.
What if I wanted to corset train my body but I am over weight. Would I
still end up with a smaller waist or would i need to lose the weight I
want to lose before I corset train. I remember when I was younger I
wore a corset everyday for 2 years. My body started shaping like an
hour glass. I was thinner also. Once I took it off with in time and
over the years of gaining weight my shape is still hour glass but not
as it was before... How could i go back to how i was. Is this harmful
to the body?

Hi Angela, no I don't think its harmful, as long as its done gradually.
Obviously if you want to get back down to the size you were at before
and you have put on weight since then you will have to loose it again.
You may want to loose the weight first then corset train your waist
smaller as otherwise you'll get through corsets faster - if your
getting thinner all over you'll end up with the gap at the laces
closing sooner than someone with a stable weight and need to buy
progressively smaller corsets at a faster rate. Which can prove very
costly if your not making your own! But besides the cost there is no
reason you can't combine tight lacing and weight loss, the two go hand
in hand as wearing a corset restricts the amount of food you can
comfortably eat and so corset training often results in weight loss
anyway because of this.
I hope that helps, Kirsty

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Technorati Tags: Corset Training, tight lacing

Is the Express Corsetry Course Hearing Impaired Friendly?

* At November 6, 2011
* By Kirsty
* In How To Make a Corset
* 0

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I was contacted today by Lili who asked a very important question for
anyone deaf or severely hearing impaired who wants to use my DVD or any
other tuitional DVD to learn a craft. So the next thing on my to-do
list is to look into getting a subtitled edition of my DVD out!

hi Kirsy, I'm interested in your dvd but i am deaf and i need text
with anything to do with tv and dvd's, does the dvd have subtitles?
if not would a transcript of the dvd be available? regards, lili.

Hi lili no it doesn't have subtitles but the instructions in the PDF
that comes with it are written and cover the same processes. The only
difference is that in the PDF book it shows how to insert lacing bones
at the back (steel bones with holes in for the eyelets) and in the
video I explain that lacing bones can be used but for the corset I'm
making in the video I will be using two steel bones with a gap in
between for the eyelets (this is used in historically accurate corsets)
but you should have no problem using either method without hearing the
DVD as its predominantly a watch and follow along guide and the written
manual is designed as a stand alone instruction manual to fully explain
corset making. If you do have trouble I'd be more than happy to answer
any questions you have by email - kirstatbirth@gmail
I hope that helps, Kirsty

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Bras in corset making!

* At October 21, 2011
* By Kirsty
* In Burlesque Corset, Cathie Jung and other famous tightlacers, How
To Make a Corset
* 0

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So I've started making bra's... `But what about corsets?!' I here you
cry.

Well I haven't moved on if that's what your thinking, no I'm just
tackling a different type of corset; the bra/corset combo. Not the
merry widow style with the bra cups attached to the corset but the
separate bra with matching underbust - the type Dita Von Teese wears.
This gives a nicer line in my opinion and makes the best burlesque
corset.

So here's some progress pics of my first bra which gives me the
opportunity to show you the corded panels from my last post in use.

I've sewn the cup panels together but not the edges so it all looks a
bit scruffy at the mo. Rather than sew a normal seam which would have
resulted in too much bulk (thanks to my insistence on cording the top
panels!) I have `butted' the fabrics up against each other and, using a
strip of rigid sheer liner fabric behind, zigzag stitched them
together. Then I straight stitched some pretty elastic over the top to
hide the join. You can see the reinforced join in the picture of the
inside.

I used a stretch Lycra for the bottom of the cups which I hand quilted
using wadding and criss cross lines of straight stitch to create the
diamond pattern. You can see one lot of lines in the last picture
before I turned the material round and sewed across them.

20111021-102616.jpg-

20111021-102650.jpg-

20111021-102659.jpg-

20111021-102910.jpg-

Dita in some of her many corset/bra combos

Dita Von Teese-

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Technorati Tags: Bra making, corset making

How to make a corset with cording

* At October 17, 2011
* By Kirsty
* In How To Make a Corset
* 0

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Today I've been cording some material. Cording was used extensively in
very early corsets so if your into making historical corsets your
likely to need to cord some pattern pieces at some point.

When you use cording in a pattern it has to be done before cutting the
pieces out as the process will make your fabric narrower.

You start by taking your piece of fabric and some backing fabric,
putting them together right sides out and sewing a straight line of
stitching down one side near the edge. You then take a length of piping
cord and place it between the fabrics up against the line of sewing.
Using a zipper foot you sew another line the other side of the piping
cord to enclose it. Repeat this until you reach the other side. Here is
my corded section of fabric to give you a better idea of what to do:

20111017-092354.jpg-

20111017-092434.jpg-

20111017-092445.jpg-

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20111017-092501.jpg-

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* Burlesque Corset (6)
* Cathie Jung and other famous tightlacers (4)
* Corset Dresses (2)
* Corset Training (29)
* How To Make a Corset (35)
* Waist Corset (4)
* Weight Loss (4)

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